Moloka'i Is called the Friendly Isle ....... but it is also the
Uncrowded Isle! It is perhaps also the most Hawaiian of all the major islands and
having visited Moloka'i is a true mark of your love of Hawaii and her people. A
sanctuary for the spirit as well as a haven for the adventurous. Among its marvels
are the world's highest sea cliffs, Hawaii's longest waterfall, the world's highest sea
cliffs and largest white-sand beach. One note of caution, however. Because
there is little "night life" or "touristy" things to occupy your time
here, make sure you travel with someone you truly enjoy being with ....... a soulmate
........ a best friend ........ someone who is your fantasy and your reality all in one
lovely package ........ or come here by yourself! There is no room here for any
sense of friction or misgiving in your choice of traveling companions. Among the
discoveries made on Molokai will be who you really are, and the quality of your most
significant relationship. Come unburdened and you will be rewarded at every turn.
What You Will not find on Moloka'i is perhaps more
significant. There are no stoplights, neon lights, nightclubs, shopping malls or
elevators, as the existing buildings are no higher than three stories. More than
half of the islands 6,800+ residents are either half-blooded or full-blooded Hawaiian
ancestry. This is the home of some spectacular ancient structures, including a
string of enormous fish ponds that line the south shore. The hospitality and harmony
of the people, the waves, the swaying palm trees and the winds are a way of life on
Molokai. A sign at the Molokai airport clues you in right away, Slow Down,
This is Molokai!"
Kaunakakai Is the island's "capitol city" so to
speak. Moloka'i is part of Maui County. This rustic one-street town is
the heart of the explorer's compass on Molokai. Here, simple pleasures are the
theme of the day. You will want to indulge in a loaf of Molokai bread at the
Kanemitsu Bakery and Coffe Shop, located in central Kaunakakai. It is the place for
cheap eats, such as hamburgers, hot dogs and sandwiches, as well as local Hawaiian fare
for lunch and dinner. Best of all, the Kanemitsu family bakes up 19 varieties of
bread and a dizzying assortment of cookies and other baked goodies every morning.
Open at 5:30 AM. Closed Tuesdays. The Moloka'i Ice House is as simple as it
gets. It's easier to miss this place than to find it. The Ice House isn't
located in a flashy building, nor does it sport a large sign. Both locals and savvy
travelers know that this place is worth tracking down, however. The ambience here is
more like a bait shop than an eatery. It serves large portions of super-fresh
seafood, most of it raw. Sashimi fans will want to get the ahi poke (ahi sashimi
diced and marinated in soy sauce and scallions). The Moloka'i Ice House makes up 8
or 10 varieties of this ambrosia fresh daily!
Unique
Adventures await the savvy
visitor at every turn on Moloka'i. Head north and you'll reach the awesome Kalaupapa
Lookout. Plan time for a stop at the century-old Meyer Sugar Mill on the way.
At the lookout, you can book passage on a three mile guided mule trek winding down a
narrow trail with 1,800 feet of vertical drop via 26 switchbacks into Father Damiens
Saint Philomena Church and Memorial, a National Historic Park. At the park, a van
tour and picnic lunch follow conducted by Damien Tours, with the cliffs, valleys and
islands of the north coast providing a memorable backdrop. In 1859, the Hawaiian
government exiled those with leprosy to this isolated spot, cut off from the rest of the
island by the near impassable cliffs. It was here that the Belgian priest, Father Damien
brought order and love to the lives of people made outcasts. Those who prefer, can
hike or fly in, although they must also connect with Damien Tours' excursions.
To The West are the scenic, wind-blown Moomomi Dunes, a Nature
Conservancy Preserve that can be visited on four-wheel-drive tours. Here, the Great
Molokai Ranch Trail camping program offers escorted cultural hikes.
Molokai Ranch, the island's largest landowner, has created an eco-friendly setting
for outdoor enthusiasts. State-of-the-art campsites house guests in decked tents and
yurts at three locations on its 53,000-acre spread. Rates include a full range of
adventures, activities and entertainment, with horseback riding, cultural and botanical
hikes, mountain biking and kayaking as some of the ways you can appreciate the beauty of
the setting. Beaches and watersports West Molokai is lined with some of
Hawaii's longest and widest beaches. Beach connoisseurs will enjoy sun worshipping
at Papohaku, which stretches three miles and includes a 10-acre beach park and
campground. There are several places along the coast that provide easy beach access,
although strong currents may make swimming dangerous.
Head East and take the Molokai Wagon Ride to
Iliiliopae heiau, one of the largest and best preserved temples of
ancient Hawaii. Continue on to Halawa Valley Lookout, with its horseshoe-shaped bay
and double waterfalls. Or take a van tour that heads to the Waikolu Valley Lookout,
where a pit in the ground was created to match the hold of the China Clippers that made
Hawaii a trans-Pacific port of call. The pit once held the sweet-smelling sandalwood
that was harvested from Molaka'i's lush rainforested mountains and shipped to China and
India. Weather permitting, and north shore seas can get rough, set out to sea on a
day trip that takes in the primeval grandeur of Molokai's north coast. You'll pass
Kahiwa Falls, at 1,750 feet, see Wailau and Pelekunu, coastal valleys edged by the world's
tallest sea cliffs and mountains that rise to the island's 4,600-foot summit.
Moloka'i Is called the Friendly Isle, and this photographer
agrees! Perhaps Moloka'i should not be included on your first visit to Hawaii as
this quiet spot in paradise might not yet be fully appreciated. However, as I have
eluded to earlier, you cannot claim to have experienced Hawaii until you spend a few days
here. It is uncluttered by the inevitable tourist driven "enhancements"
which seem to be found most everywhere else. Come .......... get local!!
|